Easy riding through the central highlands

Six days and over 800 miles of riding and we finally made it to Hoi An! That is a long way to go on a 100cc motorbike! Forgetting the fact that I no longer have feeling in either of my butt cheeks, it was an incredible trip to get a feel for how the people in the countryside of Vietnam live as well as to get up close to a lot of the battlefields and remnants left over from the terrible war that occurred over here. Our days were filled with riding through winding mounting roads stopping to check out waterfalls, old battlefields, minority villages and plenty of great Vietnamese restaurants.

As for the waterfalls, these were some of the most impressive I have ever seen. I can't even imagine what they would look like when the rainy season comes around. I don't think I have ever been anywhere where I have seen so many large waterfalls so close together. Drop after drop, each one taller and wider than the last seemed to keep appearing. Just when we thought we had seen them all, we followed a trail over a suspension bridged and were greeted by the most enormous of them all, Dry Sac falls.

After two days of exploring waterfalls and a couple of minority villages, we started to explore many of the different battle sights from the war. Sometimes, it was just a barren hill where the soil had been poisoned by the chemical agent orange that we dropped all over the place in order to kill off all the vegetation. It is sad to see that the trees still don't grow on this land today. That however is the least of the problems caused from agent orange. Everyone who came into contact with it has had deformed children. Those children our now between the ages of twenty to forty and can be seen throughout Vietnam. Even some of them who have been able to have children have had deformed children as well. It is a sad sight to see the affects of these chemicals that I had no prior knowledge of before visiting here. From a country that is so anti chemical weapons, it is horrible to see the affects and pains that continue to exist here today in Vietnam.

Along with the expanses of poisoned earth are endless fields where the local people continue to scrounge for scrap metal left from all of the artillery that was dropped throughout the country. The bomb craters can still be seen everywhere you go. Old sand bags litter the ground everywhere and all the farmers who now try to work this land are constantly pulling up more remnants of the war. We saw parts of old guns, shrapnel from bombs, old army boots and even a few bullets lying around. The other thing these poor farmers are still finding beneath the ground is plenty of land mines. It is evident everywhere you look. You can't go but a few hours a day without someone walking by with one leg, or no legs at all. Small children and adults alike are injured almost everyday throughout the entire Indochina region because of land mines and unexploded artillery.

To go along with the sad sights that the war over here left behind, Vietnam has also managed to destroy over 50% of their native forests since the war ended. It is evident everywhere in the Central Highlands where you can look at the hillsides and still see much of the land smoldering from the people still practicing slash and burn techniques. We road through barren hillsides with the occasional rubber tree farm for almost three straight days without seeing one bit of jungle. All I can think back to is all of my science classes talking about how fast the rain forests of the world are being destroyed and after traveling throughout Southeast Asia for four months now, I believe every bit of it.

Slidning down the sand dunes of Mui Ne

On our first day in Mui Ne, Tony and I decided that relaxing on the beach was going to be our first priority. Walking out onto the sand, we quickly realized that there wasn't going to be too much shade to be found so we just dropped our towels on the sand and laid down to enjoy the hot sun and the sound of the waves breaking just a few feet away. It didn't take long before both of us had to evacuate the heat on the beach and go for a swim in the cool clear water. After having cooled off we returned to the beach where the process of baking ourselves began again. This time, we didn't last half as long as the first and were both back in the water. Our third attempt to relax in the sun was even shorter and for several hours we went on with the process of lying on the beach for ten minutes and then going for a swim for twenty. I don't think I have ever been to a beach as hot as this one here in Mui Ne. I am shocked that the local people have not come up with the idea of renting umbrellas and beach chairs here. I would have gladly forked over a few dollars for the chance to get out of the sun for a bit!

We finally gave up on enjoying the beach as we were both beginning to be roasted alive so we decided to rent a couple of motorbikes and head off to visit the nearby sand dunes. After a few wrong turns and various pointing by locals we finally made our way to the nearest sand dunes that were not only red but were also covered by hundreds of children holding little plastic sheets. With women waving us to park in front of their stores, we pulled over thinking we had made it to our destination when we were suddenly boarded by multiple children. Each of us now had one child on the back and one more standing between our legs holding onto the handle bars. They carried these plastic sheets that looked like the remnants of a plastic ball you might see at a grocery store for a dollar. The children were yelling that we should go to the big dunes, the white ones. Each yelling and pointing down the road in the direction in which we were heading, they convinced us to head that way.

Fighting off the attempts of other children trying to board our motor scooters, we slowly eased out onto the road and began the fifteen kilometer drive to the white sand dunes. Now, I was a bit worried about Tony driving a motorbike, especially with two children on board but he seemed to be holding up just fine. We eventually turned off the paved road onto a dirt road where we slowed down the pace to avoid sliding around. As we wound down the dirt road, we were separated from the big white sand dunes by a small lake. It was a stunning sight to see these massive white sand dunes in the afternoon sun reflected on a perfectly still lake. With the sun fading fast, we decided not to waste time taking a picture and continue on our journey to the dunes. After passing the lake, we began a slight decent where I noticed a big patch of sand on the road. Knowing how easy this can make the bike come out from underneath you, I quickly slowed down and made my way through the sand, slipping and sliding all the way through. It occurred to me to stop the bike and wave to Tony to go extremely slow. For whatever reason, I decided he would be fine and continued on.

Not long after crossing the sand, the children showed me where to park the motorbike where we could walk up to the sand dunes. As I pulled in and hopped off the bike, there was no sign of Tony. Immediately I knew what had happened. The sand had gotten him! All I could do was hope that he along with his two child passengers were ok. A few minutes passed and still no sign of his motorbike approaching. I started the engine on mine to go back and look for the remains of my friend when suddenly the children began yelling that he was coming down the road. I waited and as Tony pulled in, I could see the blood pouring from his leg and his arm. It was obvious that the injuries weren't serious so I was more concerned about injuries to the children. Somehow, Tony had managed to take the brunt of the fall and was the only one on board the motorbike who sustained injury. A few minor scrapes here and there, but nothing to worry about. He did however claim that he was finished with motorbikes for the rest of the trip. We shall see about that one!

The children led us into the desert abyss of these enormous white sand dunes. The sun was fading fast and I wanted to get some good photos so I picked up the pace a bit and managed to get some great shots of the untouched and unmarked sand dunes. It was a stunning sight to be so far away from everything and have these massive sand dunes all to ourselves. In the distance I could see where the tour buses were leaving after dropping their passengers off for a photo of the dunes but here we were standing on the tallest of them around with no footprints to be seen but our own leading back down from where we came.

At the top of the biggest dune, the children took turns with their plastic sheets flying down the hillside. It was a steep and long ride down and watching them climb back up the hill with the sand slipping beneath their feet even made me tired. After the children had their turns, they brought the plastic over to Tony and I and the next thing you know we were flying down the hill. I have no idea how fast we were going but I think it definitely exceeded the top speed that we had made it that day on the motorbikes! After struggling through the climb back up, we took a rest and spent the rest of our time enjoying a terrific sunset over the enormous sand dunes. An incredible end to another adventurous day of traveling.

Welcome to Vietnam!

After spending a day on my own in Saigon otherwise known as Ho Chi Minh City, I was ready for my friend Tony to arrive. I had agreed to meet him at the airport but had not told him about how we would be making our way to the hotel. I really wanted Tony to experience Vietnam from the moment that he arrived. At the airport, I saw him through the window finally clearing customs after 27 hours of flying time. It wasn't hard to spot a 6'4" white guy walking amongst an army of small Asian men by any means so I quickly got his attention and welcomed him to Vietnam.

After fighting off the aggressive taxi and motorbike drivers, Tony and I made our way to the parking lot where our chariots were awaiting. As we approached the dimly lit parking lot, Tony asked where we were going. I said I wanted him to start experiencing Vietnam from the moment he arrived and I had arranged for the traditional form of transportation to get us to the hotel, motorbike taxis. Tony could only respond with an "Oh shit, are you serious?"

Motorbikes are the most common form of transportation in Vietnam. The streets always appear as if a race is about to begin as the motorbikes line up and fill up every inch of asphalt, not to mention the few free bits and pieces of available sidewalk as well. With our cheap plastic helmets buckled on, we off into the darkness. Leaving the airport, the traffic was fairly calm and spread out. This however didn't last very long. As we came closer and closer to the city, the weekend traffic was in full swing! With our drivers trying to keep up with each other, we weaved in an out of traffic, through red lights, over street corners and down narrow alley ways. Every now and then, we were riding alongside each other, both holding on for dear life but as we would look over, we couldn't help but laugh and enjoy the theme park like ride that we were on! When we arrived at the hotel safe and sound, Tony looked relieved to be dismounting his motorbike and getting his feet back safely on solid ground. I looked at him and laughed and could only say "Welcome to Vietnam!"

Paradise Found!

I have discovered a quaint little beach called Otras beach just a few kilometers away from Sihanoukville. Crystal clear water, clean white sand and no one around to disturb you. With plenty of great little restaurants lining the waters edge complete with comfortable cushiony chairs and massive beach umbrellas, I couldn't imagine a better spot to be. That is until I met three girls from Sweeden.
I spoke to them at one of the bars in Sihanoukville one night and told them about this great beach that I had found with much cleaner and clearer water than the beaches in Sihanoukville. There was hardly anyone there and if they wanted to come along, they could join me the next day. To them, the beach sounded incredible compared to the crowds that lined the shores of Sihanoukville and decided to come along.
As soon as we sat down, their tops came off and I found myself on a remote stretch of paradise with three beautiful topless women surrounding me. After two days of this torture, I am not sure that I can take much more. While I have seen my share of topless girls along the way and spent days upon days on the beach with them, I don't think that I have had my own private beach with my own private entourage of beautiful topless women splashing in the water and strutting around the sand. As the old saying goes, if you stare to long you are likely to go blind. I am still waiting for that to happen.

Cambodia's beaches

Seeing as how my farmer's tan has become quite noticeable, I thought it was time to get back to the beach. I haven't seen the beach, or at least not one that had blue skies and clear water in quite sometime now. It may not seem like a long time for anyone else but for me, being away from the beach for over two months is the longest I have gone in the past two years! After spending most of the past two months in the rainy season of Borneo and Sumatra, it was time for a change and so I headed to the beach, looking for some good food, cheap beer and beautiful women!
I spent a half hour or so looking around the different guest houses of Sihanoukville for one with a view of the ocean. I had met several people who told me that I would not find a room with a view as most of the guest houses were situated across the road from the beach with their views being blocked by the many shacks that made up the beach bars and restaurants. At first glimpse, this appears to be true but after noticing a slight hill at the end of the beach, I made my way down to further investigate. After inquiring at the small reception desk if their was a vacant room at Coater's guest house, I was shown to a beautiful wooden bungalow complete with it's own bathroom and balcony with a stunning view of the sea. At over three times the cost of my room in Siam Reap, a whopping eighteen dollars, I couldn't resist the opportunity to wake up to a view of the little strip of sand known as Serendipity Beach.
I checked in, took a shower and watched the sunset from my quaint little balcony and then headed down to the beach to find some food. As I walked along the waters edge, I was greeted by the smell of grilled meet, chicken and seafood. The beach had come alive with restaurants replacing umbrellas and everywhere you looked another sign for a beach bar b que for only three dollars. Just under this almost always read Anchor Draft fifty cents! Three dollar bar b que and fifty cent beers all sitting right on the beach. I joined a couple of people already sitting and as I sat back in my cushiony round chair enjoying my beer, I looked up to see the Southern Cross and Orion filling the night sky alongside countless other stars and remembered what it is about the tropics that I love so much.

Beng Melea- The Jungle Temple

So, I thought Angkor Wat was impressive? Beng Melea is officially one of the best places I have visited in the world. A two hour tuk tuk (motorcycle trailer taxi thing) ride away from Siam Reap, my base for exploring Angkor Wat, there is a temple that is rarely visited known as Beng Melea. It is still covered in jungle with trees growing all over and on top of the walls as well as on the insides of all of the buildings. After reading about the place, I knew I had to go and only hoped it could be half as impressive as my expectations. Upon arrival, I immediately knew that it had more than exceeded my expectations. With hardly anyone in sight, I approached the crumbling entrance gate and walls and found my way into the complex through a small ramp that had been built over a portion of the rubble to allow visitor to access the inside. Within the walls, I looked on at what seemed like the set of the most incredible Indiana Jones film that could ever be imagined. Crumbling temples amongst the bright green leaves of tropical foliage every where in sight. I can only imagine that it doesn't look much different today than when it was actually discovered a hundred or so years ago.
Setting out to explore the ruins was a childhood dream come true. At Angkor Wat, you were able to explore all of the grounds around the temples and most of the insides, but crawling on top of the temples was definitely not allowed. Here, the collapsed portions of walls became staircases leading you up as high as the rooftops of many of the temples providing views that could otherwise not be imagined. The feeling of isolation, as if you had just discovered the place yourself lurked around every corner. As I sat there enjoying the solitude of a portion of the temple and studied the roots of the trees that were slowly breaking apart even more of the ruins, I couldn't help but smile as I sat there watching nature recapture the land that man had once taken away. I pictured places like New York City, long after the human race has eliminated itself from the planet. The spire on the top of the Empire State building being replaced by the trunk of an enormous tree, with it's roots crawling down the sides slowly making their way towards solid ground.

Exploring the ruins of Angkor Wat

rAfter securing one of the nicest guest houses that I have stayed at in Asia at a cost of five dollars a night, I managed to spend almost every daylight hour over the past four days exploring the ruins of Angkor Wat. Having seen ruins of ancient civilizations throughout other parts of the world, I have to say that Angkor Wat may be the most impressive of them all. It is an incredible sight to see so many different temple complexes laid out in perfect geometric forms with such intricate carvings covering every surface in sight. The sheer manpower that it would have taken to move all of the heavy stones that make up these temples is hardly a feat at all when you consider the artistic talent that so many people must have possessed to create the beautiful carvings that soften the surface of Angkor
Wat. From a distance, you only notice the massive stones that make up the temples that you see but as you get closer you find the surface of every perfectly cut stone to be covered in the most detailed and intricate carvings. Some are just purely decorative consisting of intertwined shapes and curves while others tell the stories of historic battles and religious ceremonies. Many are shaped like animals that seem to emerge from the surface of the stone as if they are coming through from a different world. Others are female deities keeping watch over what remains of temples that honored them in a time now past.
While most people may be ruined or templed out at this point, I think I could spend another week out here. Forget that I am an architect as I don't believe that has anything to do with my appreciation of the site. Anyone who visits would be overwhelmed by the scale and beauty of the ancient temples of Angkor Wat. From a photographer's perspective, it is like a dream come true. I worked hard to figure out when would be the best time to visit each of the temples and avoid the mass of tourists that seemed to cover the grounds like hungry ants who have discovered their next meal. With only a few monks whom I wanted to capture in my photos, I think the only photos that I wound up having people in were the ones that cover the great distance of the approach from the front and the back of Angkor Wat. While there were usually a few other people there, the time of day and the route that I chose allowed me to enjoy the feeling of peace and serenity that you find when you are exploring something so fascinating and beautiful without the sound of the crowds being horded through by their tour guides.
Catching photos of the the Buddhist monks exploring the temples in their bright orange robes was a joy in itself. I felt as if I was stalking these peaceful men while they wandered around the temples but I found that I couldn't resist the opportunity. After first seeing the monks back in Thailand, I had hoped for the opportunity to photograph them amongst the ruins of some old, gray and crumbling temple. Finding them here at Angkor Wat was a dream come true. Sometimes, they would stop and smile for the camera while at other times they would stop walking, thinking that they were going to ruin a photo that I must be trying to capture of the ruins themselves. When this would happen, I would wave them on and again raise my lens to capture them meandering amongst the ruins. As I put the camera to my eye again, another pause. I usually wound up smiling and pointing to my camera then pointing to them and waving them on by. For these monks, the ones who had realized my true intentions, I would take the photograph and then approach them with their images on the back of my camera. With a smile on their face, they would place their palms together, fingers pointing to the air and give a slight bow. As is customary here in Asia and although I am unsure of the true meaning, I would respond with the same gesture and set out to find my next subject.